Pierpaolo Piccioli capped off a couture week in Paris on Wednesday night, literally, with a show at Hotel Salomon de Rothschild that was all about the hats.Magnificent floating clouds in mint and lavender, almond and pink topped models' heads. To say they were showstoppers would be an understatement; he opened with one that set the dreamy tone for the rest of the show -- a barely recognizable Kaia Gerber crowned in feathers of fuchsia glory.While they are not exactly the most wearable of accessories, Piccioli was careful to balance the whimsical with the practical, showing what he referred to in the show notes as “haute couture of the present times," which translated to plenty of trousers and trenches alongside ballgowns. Even some of those were deceptive – the billowing bottoms were actually extremely wide-legged pants. And the beige coats were anything but plain, tied up with teal bows.Bows were an ever-present motif across looks, with some versions even doubling as … [Read more...] about Valentino’s Couture Toppers Were Total Showstoppers
With the most star-studded front row yet at the Paris spring couture shows – Marion Cotillard, Diane Kruger, Isabelle Huppert, Valeria Bruni-Tedeschi and Lake Bell – Giorgio Armani made a play for the red carpet, sending out a finale of female and male models in pairs, each in a gown paired with a lush velvet tux.His so-called “Clouds” collection featured watercolor prints with ethereal lightness in icy blue and gray hues, as well as midnight and black. And while Armani’s gowns were, as usual, exquisitely constructed (he's been on a roll this awards season, dressing Nicole Kidman, Jessica Chastain and Allison Williams), it was refreshing to also see his signature sharp tailoring on the runway, alongside plenty of fun, formal shorts, too.Accessories had a new lightness, notably backpacks in matching prints to jackets and tops, as well as oversized amethyst and opal necklaces that somehow didn’t look heavy or overwhelming.Kruger, who’s Golden … [Read more...] about At Paris Couture, Armani Makes a Play for the Red Carpet, Alexandre Vauthier is Grammys Ready
Paris Couture Week opened Monday with a jam-packed calendar reflecting the growing prominence of the week as more labels seek to show outside of the noise of ready-to-wear. In terms of locales, the spring shows were certainly diverse, starting in the storied rooms of Schiaparelli's Place Vendome atelier, moving to an abandoned building on the edge of town before wrapping up at the Petit Palais. SchiaparelliSchiaparelli opened Paris couture week on a light note, despite the downpour outside. Designer Bertrand Guyon has been mining the house’s archive for inspiration, and this season he referenced founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s Pagan Collection of 1938. That collection gave us the beetle, which Guyon used here on jackets early on, before moving into ethnic prints.He used African references, some literal and some through sandy and subtle colors. But he was careful not to relegate his references to one continent, especially one so often thought of as a monolith; he also … [Read more...] about Schiaparelli Presents a Pagan Collection, Proenza’s Coachella Couture
Speculation is high that British haute couture house Ralph & Russo is in the running to design the wedding dress of a certain Miss Meghan Markle, the soon-to-be bride of Prince Harry, after the brand dressed her for the pair’s engagement photos. The latest spring 2018 couture collection shown Monday in Paris will do nothing to put that to rest, with the new red carpet favorites showing yet another run of signature fairytale gowns. This one turned toward the Chrysanthemum throne, with Japanese influences throughout. Despite the kimono-style silhouettes, several dresses were slit even higher than the thigh, and presented in fluorescent colors that are a departure for the brand. “We always like to take risks,” said designer Tamara Ralph (Michael Russo is the financial wizard behind the brand). “But we still want to keep it regal and elegant, as well as celebrate diversity.” The red carpet clientele certainly reflects that. Ralph & Russo has … [Read more...] about Is Ralph & Russo’s Couture Collection Fit for a Princess?
Just ask any schoolgirl: If there’s one thing that can level the fashion playing field, it’s a uniform. And that’s what Hollywood was asked to wear to the Golden Globes on Sunday night to show solidarity with the Time’s Up initiative to promote gender equality. Except that the all-black dress code ended up being anything but uniform. Instead, it was couture with conviction. From a fashion perspective, the palette was refreshing, putting an emphasis on silhouette and sumptuous details. It didn’t look like a funeral, but a celebration of individual style gestures and the power of accessories, from Greta Gerwig’s vintage 1980 Tiffany & Co. collar, worn with a superbly sculpted one-shoulder black velvet Oscar de la Renta gown, to Zoe Kravitz’s show-stopping Lorraine Schwartz emerald earrings, worn with her Saint Laurent column dress. Although it was a bad night for designers looking to have their names dropped on the red carpet (even as … [Read more...] about Golden Globes Red Carpet Fashion Review: Couture With Conviction